Sunday, January 24, 2010

Love the weekend.

Sprained ankle, Costco of fresh organic produce, stray dog, liquor store, gym, and a new route to walk.

After my first week here my ankle started to really bother me. My Achilles tendon or somewhere around there just felt tight. I would stretch it day and night, but nothing ever helped long term. Finally the P.E. teacher at school, Pance (Pancha), asked me why I was walking funny. I told him my ankle hurt, where and for how long. He told me to get a compression band, ice it, elevate, and not walk more than was necessary. I'm thinking that following 3 out of 4 of those directions isn't too bad. Right?

The kitchen supply had been dwindling over the week, and I was really looking forward to taking on the green market just a block down from my flat. So that is exactly what took up my Saturday morning. I had been in the Market before, I had purchased a few items there as well, like Kilo of potatoes, and an outlet adapter, but never had I decidedly ventured to this market to stock the kitchen. This would be the real deal.

I walked around, looking from one booth/stand to the other, eyes darting from here to there. Do I need apples? How about bananas? Oranges? Onions? Ooh Carrots, yeah I'll take some of those. I decided that with so many vendors, and many of them carrying similar items, that I should only buy a few items from each booth. Apples here, bananas there. There really was not method to my madness, just using it as an opportunity to see more, and interact with different people.

This one guy was a real salesman. I went to his stand/booth thing looking for mushrooms. He asked me (in english) what I was looking for, I told him mushrooms, and he replied regretfully that he had none, but that the stand next to him did. Before I managed to turn to walk away he asked if I had tried any Macedonian peppers. He did some Vanna White(ish) gesture over his display of Bell Peppers. Apparently I'm a sucker for wheel of fortune, I was hooked. 3 green peppers, a red pepper, and something else (?) later and I was off to get mushrooms. I remembered him telling me that two of the green peppers were sweet and one was spicy. Until tonight's dinner I couldn't remember... I found out very quickly. Each of the peppers are the same shade of pale green but different shapes. Now I know the skinny one = HOT.

I meandered around the market, having a good time bouncing around, and gathering fruits and vegetables for home. I stopped by one of the butcher shops to get something for dinner... I looked through the glass cases as one of the butchers was patiently waiting for me to say something. The place was packed, if I were him I would have been very impatient with me. Finally I pointed at two meat patties, I think beef? There looked good and don't resemble liver. He looked up and asked "more?" I was caught off guard, I don't know why, but I was. I stammered a bit, replying a stupid, "uhhhh mmmm, uhhh, no." He gut rolled. I don't know what was so funny, but he was cracking up. Of coarse the other butchers behind the counter joined in and me, feeling like an idiot joined in as well. Really it was funny, maybe you had to be there.
Once I brought my bounty home and stored it all away, I decided it would be a good idea to give the ankle a rest, and then head to a local pharmacy to find an ace bandage compression wrap for my ankle. I remembered seeing a pharmacy on my walk home from the Epiphany on Tuesday, I just forgot how far down it was. I knew it was further than I wanted to go, so I stopped in every pharmacy I saw along the street. After two pharmacies, and a quick stop at a sidewalk bakery, I got what I needed and turned around to go home. My ankle felt fine. The sun was shining. My iPod was playing the best Saturday walking music I could ask for. Then I found it. A liquor store. It's nothing fancy, but now I will be able to maintain my Wednesday tradition of Margaritas. : )

With my tequila and ace bandage wrap in a bag I decided that it might be a good idea to head home. With about 20 minutes of a walk left I decided I'd never walked South of Partisanksa, the main street that leads to the city center. Thinking that if I my ankle began to hurt too bad, I now had Tequila handy to help me if I needed it, and with the weather lingering around 2 degrees celsius (35 ish F) I knew it would be cold enough to handle after a while. -- I joke, the thought of taking a pull off the bottle crossed my mind, but I wasn't really up for it. --

As I walked around, I decidedly looked around at the new buildings, the small shops, and restaurants littering the sides of the streets. I am calling the post office tomorrow to inquire about my camera that Mom sent over two weeks ago, I want to share this stuff with you. As I get to a T in the road I notice an unusual statue; a giraffe from the neck up was looking down the street directly at me. I remembered a student telling me about the zoo, but had simply forgotten. I love the zoo. Now that I have found it, I will be going back. I would have went in right there, but a bag from the liquor store didn't seem an appropriate thing to carry around while making faces at the chimpanzees.

Making a mental note of where the zoo was in relation to home, I resumed my walk, now wishing that it wasn't such a lengthy one. Not paying as much attention to my surroundings now, I didn't even notice that I had a new friend along for the walk. I have mentioned before that there are a ton of strays here, some scare me others don't. Either way, I know better than to engage. This one was a little different. I didn't feed, nor pet dear Fido, I didn't want him to follow me all the way home (not that I had food anyways) and I have an irrational fear of fleas - borderline phobia, I just hate them - but I allowed him to join me on my Saturday stroll in a new neighborhood. The closer I got to home the more nervous I got that Fido would follow my foot steps right to my door. Luckily along the way he found some other strays and left my side without hesitation. Just as soon as my relief subsided, I saw it. No less than 5 minutes from my house, a gym. I walked inside. The lime green equipment might be as old as I am, but its close to home, the price is right, and the lime green cracks me up. The manager of the place wasn't there, but the two kids working out told me to come back on Monday and I would be able to set up a membership. Ladies and gentlemen, I have finally found me a gym. Life Is good.

Other than cooking and cleaning and more walking around Skopje that was pretty much the weekend. Today I decided to seek out my running path and at least walk it. Ankle or not, if the sun is shining, I want to be in it. I decided to look at the gym that my principal suggested to me. it is in the bottom of the nicest hotel in Skopje, the price is not right, and it's 10-15 minutes walk away. I still wanted to check it out. It looks cool enough, well-lit, new equipment, a tanning bed, and staff that is present, but there wasn't anything lime green...
Right next to the hotel the Vardar River, and right next to the river is exactly what I have been looking for. A paved running/biking path that goes along the banks of the river. Luckily there is probably 50 - 60 yards of grass that can be used to run on as well. The path leads directly to the city center and continues further out of town, it also goes for a ways passed my neighborhood as well. Tequila, gym, running path, zoo, and conquering the market. What a good weekend.

I'm finally getting comfortable in this city, going to the super market, the market, and the stores. I'm getting used to flying solo, I'm not kidding you, my walks the last couple of days have cause funny looks from people. I tend to randomly sing along with the ipod (even though no one else can hear), dance a step or two (in mid stride), or burst out in laughter as if someone right beside me just told me the funniest thing I've heard all month. I've decided that I miss a lot of people from home, but it's walks like the ones I had this weekend that I am able to really think about good times from home. : ) With all the fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and bread available, or rather due to the unavailability and/or higher price of pre-packaged frozen items I have really had a good time cooking my own meals from scratch. I'm no Chef Boyardee, but then again, I'm trying out my own thing and aside from the spicy vs. sweet pepper debacle tonight, I've been fairly successful at feeding myself.

After two and half weeks here, and only 14 more left. I'm feeling more and more at home, and less of a stranger. Hopefully I will be getting that camera soon and you will be able to see more of what I am talking about. Thanks for your emails and notes on facebook. I get a good kick out of hearing how things are stateside, and what you are up to as well.

Have a Great rest of your Sunday, I know that mine was Fantastic.

Ciao!

Evan

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Wednesdays used to be for Margaritas...

One of the things I hugely miss from home - aside from mom's cooking - is an almost bi-weekly event that I came to cherish this last fall semester. 2 for 1 Margarita night at Casa Lopez in Moscow ,Idaho. Not that I'm a sucker for margaritas, but the price is right, atmosphere is fun, and the company, always my favorite.

At my school here in Skopje however, there is a new tradition I will be filling my Wednesdays with. Ice skating. That's right, ice skating. The way I see it every community or neighborhood has their sport, or activity that children grow up doing. Some grow up playing soccer, others baseball, maybe basketball, tennis, golf, etc etc. Only a handful of people I knew growing up were ice skaters. Here in Skopje (I'm sure in other places too) children grow up playing football (soccer), and ice skating.

Before tonight I had only ice skated once before, about 13 years ago, for maybe an hour. I was a big inline skater back in 2nd and 3rd grade; I think that worked out to my advantage. The P.E. teacher for the primary grades Panche tried to wrangle me into chaperoning last week, but alas I had a NYE to celebrate. This week, I had no excuse and a class full of excited 4th graders cheering me on. Have no fear, no one was let down.

I met Panche and his family at NOVA so that I could hitch a ride along with him. I've mentioned Skopje driving, and I was sure that Panche wouldn't dissapoint. Luckily he drives a 1980 Lada, a small, smurf blue, Russian built automobile. Where Ford is built like a rock, Lada (or this one anyway) is built like a tank. I actually felt safe weaving through traffic, this time.

Ice skating as it turns out, is much more fun than I remembered and anticipated it being. I raced several students, one of which shared, "Mr. Evan, you are much slower on ice skates, than when you run. Tag is way more fun now." Thanks Alex. I managed to tag him shortly after. : )

After successfully avoiding too many pride dwindling falls, just barely slipping away with no bruises, I arrived at home craving for my usual Wednesday night. Well since I can't have Casa Lopez, or my fantastic company from home, I figure I'll supply the drinks myself. That's right you guessed it. Ice skating, followed by ice cold Margaritas.

Now I just need to find some salsa in this country. Wish me luck.

Cheers, and Ciao!

Evan

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Sudden Epiphany. Right on Schedule

I really timed this trip right in terms of holidays. Yesterday was a working day for Macedonians, MLK doesn't really mean much to many people here. It was only briefly mentioned by one of the Croatian students in the class, and the topic didn't go any further than that. I was kind of surprised, but then again maybe that is just an American thing. Who knows.

--- History Lesson ---

While everyone back home was able to enjoy their day off yesterday I was able to enjoy today off. 13 days ago (January 6th) was the Western Christian celebration of Epiphany meaning that today, the Orthodox Christian celebrated. I had to Google what the Epiphany is all about. After going back and forth between Western Christian and Orthodox I am still a little bit confused, but I think I've got it right. This day is a celebration of the baptism of Christ. It's a pretty big celebration; lets find out why. In every substantial town and/or city a/the churches will hold a special service. The priest blesses a cross, and then meets the masses at the nearest large body of water. The priest says some prayer and tosses the cross into the water. Here is the fun part. Men of all ages, like teenagers to whatever... jump in the water to retrieve the cross and return it to the priest. The man who retrieves the cross (along with his family) is blessed by the priest, and in some communities receives some sort of prize.

--- End of lesson---

The large body of water here in Skopje is the Vardar River. -- I think I have mentioned it before; it is a highly polluted river, the waste water from the cities population, among other things, go directly to this river -- Today I ventured down to the city center to witness this event take place. It was massively populated. Once I got to the outlying parts of the center I knew this was a bigger deal than I had previously pictured. The streets were packed with people. The ceremony was held at the Stone Bridge (see earlier pictures) and was WILD. I couldn't believe the amount of men that actually jumped in and were swimming around for that cross. Dedicated. The energy was contagious and exciting, what a fun holiday! Once Mirko Petrovski got to the cross there was a burst of applause and cheering. Mirko returned the cross to the priest and received blessing for himself and family, a TV, an electric stove, refrigerator, a coin from the mayor and other gifts as well. --- I still don't have my camera so I am posting pictures that I got from the internet - they are probably better quality anyways.

Shortly after this event people went around doing their own thing. Most people left the center, but I took the opportunity to do some more exploring of the Albanian bazar. This place is like a giant flea market it is possibly my favorite part of town. It also holds much of the original architecture of Skopje unlike the Macedonian side of Skopje which was affected largely by Earthquake in the 60s.

I took a cab to the center to see the events at the bridge, but after walking around the bazar, I didn't see the harm in walking even more to get home.

Now I'm home, have updated the blog, and am thinking about walking to the nearby cafe for a drink. Hope your week starts well!

Cheers and Ciao!

Evan

Friday, January 15, 2010

Happy Old New Year!!! And then some.

Let's catch up a little bit.

History lesson. So from the 14th century to the 19th century Macedonia was under the Turkish rule of the Ottoman Empire. While under that rule (and less formally since then) Macedonians followed the Orthodox Christian calendar. This calendar is just the same as the one we follow in the states, just the holidays are 13 days off. Christmas was the 6th of January and well New Years Eve was the 13th....

Ok So Radica (my teacher) mentioned to me that on Wednesday a collegue of ours, herself and some old time friends were going to a caferana to celebrate the Old New Year and said that she made the reservation large enough for me to join. A caferana is a cafe(bar) that also functions as a restaurant with a big dance floor. She was very enthusiastic about the celebration, saying that the caferana, 14, had super food and would be hosting live music. Wanting to capitalize on every cultural experience I can, I gave her 500 Denars ($10.oo) to cover dinner, and told her I'd be there. The Denars went towards delicious meat and cheese platters and a large amount of salad. It was like the Olive Garden, just more fun.
When I got to 14 the meat and cheese platter looked like something you could get at Alberstons - fancy rolled ham, with creatively presented cheese -, the salad was pretty much the same - all the veggies were thin sliced carrots, cabbage, beets, cucumber, and something else - it wasn't that I was disappointed; however I was really hoping to get Macedonian cuisine. Wait, I forgot about the rolls, one looked like small grilled cheese, and the other was just your basic egg roll looking wrap. Ok I was stupid to be disapointed, with Radica close by to tell me what that cheese was, and how yummy one roll was paired with the other cheese. Everything was SO good. The cold cuts were mostly ham, but somehow different than any ham I had in the states. 4 different cheeses, each of them very rich, and excellent. This is what I am told is pretty much traditional Macedonian party food. I like it.
The background music (while I was there) was 98% Serbian. Prior to Macedonian becoming independent after the splitting of Yugoslavia, the Serbians and Macedonian culture were very similar. In fact they still are, and the two people of the countries get along very well. Politically however, they do not. It's the old traditional values that these Balkan countries hold onto that really keep them from progressing along with the rest of the world.... throughout the night Radica would fill me in on Macedonian culture while we danced around the table clapped with the music and laughed at her husband and his 4 other friends that he has known for over 20 years. I didn't understand a word they were saying, but really when people are that funny, I didn't need to.

I found out that one of the things I was laughing the hardest about was when three of them were making fun of the other. They were playing around like they were maids, sweeping and dusting things... doing the sexy maid bit. I asked Radica what the joke was about. She said they were teasing their other friend for helping his wife do the house work. I didn't get it. That's when one of our colleagues (the social 5-9 social studies teacher) who grew up in Toronto informed me that Macedonian culture makes it very easy for a man to decide to marry. Apparently it's 1952 and the Stepford lifestyle is still the thing to do. Men rarely help with house chores, and this is a widely accepted thing. Due to low wage pay however, women rarely take more than a 3 month maternity leave and hardly ever become stay at home moms from choice, but rather from inability to find work. - this is just for the majority of the population not all families function this way -
Another thing that almost made me fall out of my chair is when she mentioned one of the shops right next to the green market just down the street. Apparently Macedonians would NEVER go out in public with out underwear. Sure the women dress provocatively at times, but they rarely plan on acting upon it and they will always wear underwear. I wasn't really sure where Radica was going with this, then she dropped it. "You know.?. Like that one bald headed crazy celebrity that held her baby in her lap while driving and smoking a cigarette at the same time... She didn't wear underwear. And you can google her _____." I almost died. If I had to hear this so did you.

After celebrating the countdown, and dancing a little longer I figured it would be time to go home seeing as NOVA only celebrates days off for the calendar that the U.S. follows and school would be starting at 8:00. I guess somewhere around 1:30 the music switched from the Serbian music and dancing (much like something from Jewish Wedding parties in the movies) The place switched to Elvis. Of all things, I missed Elvis. Never again will I leave a bar early while I am here.

I'm trying to think of other things of interest since then, but mostly they pertain to educational differences from here to the states. Really the differences I am witnessing here can be found all over at any school in any nation. Each teacher has such distinct methods and strategies of instruction that something will always be different. These students are very bright, and learn things quickly. Something that I am veyr happy about because it seems the expectation is that students hear facts once, make a comment on the information, and are tested on information. I have never moved so quickly through content in my life. Like I said, students are learning so I am not going to complain.

Otherwise, the weekend has officially started, some how I managed to sprain my ankle and stayed in to elevate and ice. tomorrow I am going into class to put grades into the computer, then depending on weather and ankle Mt Vodno ( a small nearby mountain) is calling my name. Located atop Vodno is the Millenium Cross. Pictures of that to come.

Happy New Year!

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

It's been a week

It's been a week. THAT IS IT!!! I was skyping with a friend tonight, she left Seattle for Spain the same day that I left Seattle for Skopje. While comparing our flights (she still doesn't have her luggage) we both for the first time today realized we left 7 days ago. I really am thinking that I missed something. It has to have been more than just 1 week. This is a joke. Right? It seems like so much longer, but in a good way.

Today in class I was helping out here and there doing a lot of observation when I realized, this experience will change the way I view education profoundly. The strategies and methods used in my calss are very different than what I have been instructed to use. It is much of the same strategies and methods used when I was in school, and things have changed since then. I'm not shaking my head and cringing, but noticing how different isn't always wrong/bad. These students love school, their teacher, and they are really freaking smart. So far so good.

Much like the Macedonian Christmas, the New Year is 13 days later as well. Thats right. I get two New Years! My Mentor Teacher had made reservations last week for her and 14 others, myself included, to a restaurant just a short walk away. I'm excited for tonight. For some it is just as big as NYE on the 31st, school is still up and running tomorrow so the champagne won't be flowing so much for me, but hopefully for others here.

Happy New Year!

P.S. I haven't really heard from too many people back from home. email me and let me know what's going on back in the states...
facebook it or lustigevan@hotmail.com

Ciao!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Nescafe

Both yesterday (Monday) and today I had to skip my morning cup of coffee because time managed to sneak up on me and it was too late to brew any. Coffee here is different anyways, it's strong. Or at least that's how Macedonians like it. I asked my teacher about how to make coffee here. The coffee that is ground up and packaged (same as at safeway) is ground super fine, even though it has tasted like coffee that I was used to in the states, I just wasn't convinced I was doing it right. Radica confirmed my thoughts, Turkish coffee is different, and while it is good the way I was making it, it can be better... Making it better takes time, not something I want to wake up 10 minutes earlier for. This is when she introduced me to Nescafe, and intant coffee that I'm fairly certain is available in the states as well. Essentially, if you are not drinking espresso, you drink instant coffee. She told me that Macedonians drink their Nescafe strong, much stronger than the coffee Americans drink. Stupidly I took this as a challenge. Two cups of extra strength Nescafe, and I'm thinking that even 4 nyquils wouldn't knock me out at this point. I'm an idiot. It's tasty, but I'll be awake for a few more hours probably.

Also I figured out the yogurt situation. One of the things that threw me off so much on my first trip to the grocery store were the variety of cheeses and yogurt. I would pick of a container of yogurt and swear it was liquid and not... well yogurt. I was right. Traditional (and the most popular) yogurt is somewhat in smoothie form, and unsweetened. The flavor is like plain yogurt but maybe even salty. Apparently it is best paired with brucha, which is a pastry that is stuffed with practically anything you want. This meal is supposed to be one of the best breakfasts I can ask for while I am here. I have the yogurt now I need to find a nearby bakery, and i'll have the pancake and eggs of Macedonia.

Hope you have a great Tuesday! I know I did!

Monday, January 11, 2010

Back to school back to school...

Yesterday (monday) I was reminded that I came here to not only learn about a new culture, experience new things and travel new places, but to also visit, learn and teach in a new school.

One of the reasons I love this house is that is it 7 minutes walking to my school. So perfect.

First day of school was a whirlwind. My teacher, Mrs. Radica (Radizza - like pizza) is a young teacher, she's been teaching for 5 years, all of them at NOVA and has moved with these students from Kindergarten up to 4th grade. She is energetic, exciting, and very patient. Yesterday as I observed, and helped when it seemed like I could, I noticed that everything she does has a specific purpose, not all of them were apparent to me, but I knew there was some specific reason for her doing what she did. I will learn a lot from her.

My students are a very happy bunch. They are almost always smiling, talking, and participating. (keep in mind this was the first day). The one thing that struck out the most from this class was the diversity of its students. In a class of 20 students are from: America (2), Macedonia (4), Kosovo (2), Croatia (1-2?), Malaysia (1) Denmark(1) Poland (1) Australia (2) India (1) ... and more that I can't remember. One of the Australians sound just like the dentist in Finding Nemo. All of these students are fluent in English, some are harder to understand because of their accent, but this is something I will soon get used to.

Because my 3rd/4th grade class in Lewiston liked the Vandals so much, and the football that I brought to class everyday I decided that it would be fitting to bring this class the same gift. Let the games begin. I knew that American Football might be a difficult game for them to understand. Thankfully I was able to put one of the two American boys on each team. The group loved it, we even had 3rd graders joining in and playing. It took practically the entire recess to help one of the Aussies understand the difference between rugby and American Football, but we got it.

This school seems like a great fit and I am looking forward to day number TWO. In fact I need to leave in about 30 minutes. Time to get ready!

Ciao!

Sunday, January 10, 2010

1st Weekend

Saturday & Sunday like the usual weekend, did a fairly good job of blending together.

Both days were lazy to begin with, partially due to adapting to the time change but mostly because the only schedule I have been operating on is my own.

Saturday I met up with my friend Dalibor and we began our walk to the other side of the bridge to the Albanian portion of Skopje. We began our walk in high spirits and light steps excited about the sunny weather and carefree excursion. once across the bridge however the clouds decided to join us on our outing. Either way, I was able to see the old part of Skopje. Many of the building, courtyards and walkways/roads are original and fairly well preserved. The cobble stone streets are lined with shops of all kinds, clothing, jewelry, shoe shops, and of course tourist shops. As the rain started to come down faster Dalibor and I decided it would be a good idea to dodge into a cafe and wait out the weather. I'm not sure if I mentioned this or not but a cafe is also synonymous with bar, true there is coffee, but essentially only small espresso drinks, no lattes or mochas, and lots of booze.
While there Dalibor refreshed me on more of Macedonia, and Skopje's history. As well as the United States on again off again relationship with not only with the Balkans: Kosovo, Bosia, Serbia... but also specifically with Macedonia.

From the cafe we ventured out to the bazar down the hill. its essentially a flea market(?) with even more fruits and veggies, other foods, clothes shoes... its very cheap at this place but still maintains quality. Being close to Dalibors University he decided to give me a short tour of campus and his building. Like much of the building that were constructed during Socialist times in Macedonia the campus is almost entirely made out of concrete. This University is the most populated university in the country with ~ 10,000 students. It seems that the university is the best way to guarantee employment later in life. Having a degree, Dalibor informed me, does not ensure employment, or even higher employment, but without a degree there is even less hope for a pay check. At this point I learned that the unemployment rate here is around 40% where in the U.S. it's just reaching 10%. I was stunned. Whammy after whammy I then learned that the average income of the people of Macedonia is in the ball park of $3,000 USD a year. After hearing that I have looked around a lot more and am noticing that there is a divide between those that are thriving and those that are just surviving.

After campus we walked back through the city center which was much busier than Christmas day. It was FULL of people. Just as before most of the crowd was dressed to impress. Due to hunger, and plans of a night on the town we didn't linger or look too much. We stopped for lunch and I took the 25 minute walk to my flat to nap.

around 10:30 p.m. I walked towards city center to meet with Dalibor and some of his friends. Students have been on holiday from the University since the end of December and will continue to be through this month. Their winter break functions different than ours, as does most of their college classroom experience. (please keep in mind much of this is generalization, and is what I remember from the other day... yeah?) For the most part they go to class and listen to the professor talk about the subject matter, homework is limited, and there is usually only one test for each semester. Here is the kicker... their one (most important test) is in January, during their winter "break". So instead of using their winter break as an opportunity to travel, kick back with friends and family, and drink even more than usual, these students are spending much of their days studying. --- That information sets the stage for the night apparently. --- We go to a small cafe/bar where a friend of Dalibor is singing with her band. There we meet a group of Dalibors classmates just in time for his friend to start singing. Not wanting to try the national treasure of beer Skopsko again so soon (it tastes like Rainier or Natural Light) I decide to follow many others lead and get a Cognac. I decide that maybe mine should be mixed with coke, the stuff is POTENT. The band sings covers of Rock/Pop songs: Sweet Child of Mine, a song or two by No Doubt, something by Oasis 80's 90's music. The Macedonian accent is not as thick as Boris and Natasha from Rockie and Bullwinkle, but it resembles that... it was an interesting alteration to these familiar songs. Back to the winter break and testing; because testing starts next week, the bar never really gets hopping by the locals standards. To me it is a small venue, very cozy for the amount of people there, however I am incorrect, usually there is standing room only. Somewhere around 1:00 I decided that maybe it was time to go home, the club would likely be slow like the bar was, and I was ok with the night how it was. Before I arrived here walking home at 1:00 a.m. was something that I told myself was a bad idea, not a safe choice, but after being here for a few days it is clear to me that this is a safe city and I should have no problem walking around at any time day or night. Everyone please knock on wood that this is the experience that I get for the entirety of my stay.

Sunday was a LAZY day. I didn't leave my place until noon... but I set off with a plan. I wanted to go to the city center, using a route I had not used before, attempt to get lost, get found, and buy something using Macedonian Denars hopefully from someone who would speak little or no English. Mission accomplished. On my adventure I noticed several things. There are many dogs here, stray and pets a like. While the dogs here have a tail, four legs, and bark, there is one difference that I notice time and time again. The dogs here are large. Not fat large, but tall. These dogs are the types that you get nervous when that walk around toddlers. Honestly, I get nervous when they walk around me. Sure, there are Korgy type of dogs here too, and strays (a lot) but these giants lumbering down the street eek.
Another thing I noticed was the fashion and style. This trip to the center I decided to look at the malls. One was closed the other... was not. As I went through the stores, it seemed like one was much like the other. The general trend here right now is dark leather looking jackets, gray and black striped shirts of any kind, and purple. Purple for men though. All different shades, bright dark, you name it. Purple isn't really my color... so for now the wallet is safe.
Desperate to get rid of at least a few of my Denars, and at this point hungry, I stopped at the grocery store on my way home. I have good news ladies and gentlemen, I am no longer afraid of the grocery store. Even better news, I have found beer that is only 2 or 3 Denars more than Skopsko and its good!

Pretty much thats my weekend. Low key, and leaving many more to come that will surely not be as ---- uneventful. : )

Friday, January 8, 2010

Friday the 8th.

It's really Saturday morning... I'm up at 4:13 still trying to get used to this time switch. Friday was a good day, very low key and relaxing. I slept in, most likely due to the time change only to walk a block or two to the green market. The green market is basically what is sounds like, a market with plenty of fruit and vegetable vendors to choose from. Each vendor as I passed by asked for my attention saying different phrases, none of which I understood. I didn't end up purchasing anything, maybe later today. After my walk around the market I decided to find my school. NOVA (my school) turned out to be much closer than I originally anticipated, less than a 10 minute walk. I found it easily went inside and met with the business admin. Ivan. I had met Ivan at that airport and found him greatly hospitable. I think thats part of his job though. : ) He gave me a quick tour of campus, I can't remember exactly I think at this point enrollment is around 600 students K-12. I might be wrong. they are in the process of constructing a new building right now that I will likely be assisting in the moving process. The school is already using a newly constucted K-2 building. It is a FANCY building, even for U.S. standards. Materials and the way the building functions were created in the most efficient and environmentally friendly way that cost could allow. I'm eagerly anitcipating what the new building that my classroom will be moving into will look like.

On the tour I met many of the administration staff, a common comment was that I did infact look very foreign (not sure why, other than the fact that I am a foreigner) and that I look like a highschool exchang student. ~ I am hoping this youthful look follows me into my old age. ha.
Everyone was very welcoming and seemed as excited as I am to have me on board.

Classroom sizes seemed very small compared to what I am used to in the states, but I am thinking this just means I will not have to speak up too loud to get students attention.
After my tour of the school I found the route of choice to and from my apartment and took a short nap.

Deciding that I had to do something I rembered on my run seeing a strip mall type of community just a few minutes down the way off the main street, Partisanska St. After exploring I found a cool looking cafe to walk into. I am not sure what I was expecting, but I was very underdressed for the occasion in a hoodie and jeans. The bar had both espresso machine and coffee makers but even more than that, this cafe (and I'm thinking this is common) is also a full service bar... I decided that at 4 p.m. I would go for the coffee instead. At $1.20 USD a pop I can get used to this.

I foolishly left my camera at home --- in Idaho --- mom kindly sent it in the mail today (thanks mom) there will be pictures of these places soon.

After the cafe, I began my walk home. To get from one side of Partisansa to the other you have to cross 6 lanes, 3 going each direction. To cross the street, essentially you wait for the lane closest to you to be open and then cross as the next lanes free up. Crosswalks exist but not in the same way. It is almost as if I am in a game of Frogger...

Dodging cars, checking out cafes, markets and the school pretty much was all my day amounted to. Tomorrow (rather today) I have a list of everyday items I need to get, and plan on hitting a night on the town.

Ciao!

Welcome to Skopje!

Hello,

It's Friday the 8th of Jan. 9:57 A.M. I meant to update and post a blog yesterday, but by the time I got home I was exhausted. Yesterday was a BUSY day. So much to report!

Pictures are to the side ---> I am working on finding a way to make them larger, but getting them posted as they are took a long time! Enjoy!

I woke up around 7:45 which after all the traveling I was surprised to wake up so early. My landlord must have heard me trying to put some breakfast together (at this point it was kiwi and cereal) because he came upstairs wished me good morning and said "Today we must take care of some unpleasant business." Keep in mind that my landlord is (probably) in his 60s I'm thinking late 60s, and has a heavy Macedonian accent which sounds like Russian. His name is Aleksaner so I call him Aleksaner the Great, he laughs at this... So I'm standing in basketball shorts and a ragged T-Shirt and he mentions that we have unpleasant business. I have no idea what this could mean; infact I'm nervous. I tell him that whatever is necessary we will do, he nods his head and says, "Get ready, we are going to the police station. Get your passport, don't ever lose that, very important." He gives me a look that tells me, " Dumb kid, don't lose your passport." I plan to follow that direction.
I walk down my three sets of stairs and go outside, greeted by chilly air but sunshine. We get in his VW mini car, and he hurls us down the street dodging speedbumps and pointing at schools, telling me what street we live on and where the major Blvd is. In a few short minutes I feel like I have escaped certain death and we arrive at the police station. (Mom, Dad, I now understand why you think I drive too fast. I promise you they are faster and seemingly more reckless here - they park on the sidewalks and honk at pedestrians.) The police station like many other buildings is old, and something that we might consider falling apart, but to here it works. Aleksaner tells the two police men what we are there to register me as a visitor, or this is what I am thinking he said because I don't understand a word... Long story short I register as a visitor, they give me a card that says I am registered, and The Great One tells me again with that look of "You better be listening..." that this card is as important if not more than my passport.
We get back in the small VW and he pulls off in a different direction than what we had come from. He stops outside of this large building with a red sign reading VERO (there is a McDonalds next door, it smells familiar) and tells me, "You, go inside, get what you need and walk home." I look at him with what I am sure is a "HUH?!" expression. Then as if he is talking to a child, he says "You walk home, not far from here, turn at Varshavska walk all the way down. You don't get lost. Easy." At this point I still don't exactly know what VERO is, but I'm not going to argue. Turns out its a grocery store. FOOD! It's not large, but not small either, from what I hear it has the best variety of selection in the city. It's very much like a small Safeway, or Alberstons. There is one problem that still worries me... everything is in the cyrillic alphabet. trying to buy yogurt provides to be the hardest thing I had to worry about, I had no idea if it was yogurt or a container of strawberries. Also the choices for cheese were HUGE. I should have just picked one and went, but I was a little overwhelmed.
Like a kid in a candy store I walked around just looking at all the offerings (many of which I had no idea what they were.) The deli had chunks of meat that others were ordering to be sliced. I had no clue what it was, I'll go back with a friend. The butchering block was full of people orders being given, butchers chopping and slicing, meat hanging from all over, and a full cooler of different slabs of meat. Someday I will know what all these are. Mostly I stuck to fruit, bread, PBJ, rice, pasta, and even found some Top Ramen. I went to the register, and was greeted by a young lady, who did not speak Engish... I just gave her my card and it was simple. Phew. The walk home was uneventful and I made it safely.
I arrived home and it was probably around 11:00. Then I decided in city I don't know, a country completely foreign to me, where people will likely not know much English, I should go for a run. My mindset is that I will be able to explore the city a little more and get some exercise, two birds with one stone. I'm an idiot. Running turns out is not a common practice here, especially through the city. I got plenty of looks indicating how unusual this was. I turned around when I thought I had gone far enough, and went back to find my street and home. After an hour and 15 minutes I decided I was not sure where I was. luckily I had just ran past my street home by two blocks. Right as panic was setting in I had found the right street. I will be dropping crumbs on the next run.
On my run I noticed several things, crazy drivers, many stray animals, the smell of car exhaust, and litter along the streets. As I have been told, the pollution regulations are fairly lax, and a no littering law has just recently been established. As a new country they are faced with more important issues to face than pollution and littering. I'm not saying this is a dirty country, it was just something that I noticed that was different. Also many of the buildings are older, and are mostly some version of gray, and made of concrete.
After my much longer than intended run, I cleaned up and set of to my new friend Dalibor's apartment that he shares with his family. A 20-25 minute walk towards the city center, and I arrived. He decided to stay at home while his family went to an aunts home to celebrate Christmas so that he could study, and to show me around town. Dalibor's mother kindly left traditional Macedonian holiday food at home for him to share with me. We ate a leek pie, not a sweet pie, but good, especially when paired with this cheese that comes in a block form, is more solid than feta or goat, but has a mixture of flavor like that of goat, and cottage cheese? It was yummy but different. Next were cabbage rice balls. Rice and maybe some bean were wrapped in a leaf of cabbage and I'm thinking boiled... these were good too, kind of similar to a meat ball, but no meat. Then was a bean dish, not like chili, but not like stew... good nonetheless. This was followed by some SWEET Baklava. I was grateful for my run after this.
At this point it is a little after 3 p.m. maybe 2, ( I can't remember) we decided to head out to the city center. Dalibor is a certified tour guide of Skopje, he knows much of the history (and there is SO much) of Skopje, and of Macedonia. And is able to point out all the of the cool places to be. The streets were not packed, but not barren either, most people were at home celebrating Christmas still. I am sure I will be overwhelmed on busy days down town... Dalibor had told me earlier that when people go down to the center, they dress to impress, I expected usual mall attire, just jeans and coat or sweater, but most people were dressed very nicely. To go to the center you dress to impress for sure. Dalibor took me to many of the big city sites, a trainstation that was torn in two peices during a devastaing earthquake in the 60's. It is now a museum of Skoje's history. We walked on the Stone Bridge that was built in the 15th century. It connects the Macedonian side of Skopje to the Albanian side. The seperation between the two cultures is something I will talk about more as I begin to understand it better.
There were two malls we visited, one was an "American" version of the mall, the other is the largest mall in the nation. It is outdoor and is an impressive size, especially for this city that seems so old. The city center is a large pavilion lined with shops and cafes(bars). I will be back to visit there soon tonight perhaps. : ) There are several statues all over, I will hopefully have more pictures of them, but they have one statue called the "Glizzy Girl" which is basically of a hussy of a girl, on her cell phone with a very low cut dress, on the other side of the street is positioned "The Stud" he is calling out to the Glizzy girl, but is being ignored. I felt bad for the Stud, he is forever being ignored.
Oh back to the earthquake in the 60s... Apparently it devastated the city of Skopje, very little of the city center is of original buildings. The building that surround the center on one side are referred to as the concrete wall. There are many tall apartment buildings that are all the same, that were built very quickly after the earthquakes to provide housing for the people of Skopje. This leads to a very unimaginative sky line. There was a small section of the city just outside of the center, that is very historic, it looks much like a little village, no pictures of that yet.. stay tuned.
After seeing the city center all lit up (which was AWESOME) Dalibor and I decided to head home. My legs sore from my much longer than intended run, and the 3 hour tour of the city center, I walked with Dalibor back to his apartment building and continued on my way to my flat 25 minutes from the center. This city is safe and full of walking people, so I did not feel threatened at all at any point. Yesterday was an incredibly BUSY day. right now it is 11:30 and I have yet to get ready. I think it will be more of a relaxing Friday. I am set to visit my school, find my classroom, get a cell phone, some cash, and then tonight along with Dalibor go to a bar to listen to his friends band play.

Thanks for reading. I know this is long, sorry!

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

home sweet home

Hi there!

I made it! After what seemed like forever of sitting and waiting, up at 4:30 a.m. getting to Skopje at 3:30 a.m. (your time) was a long day. The flight from Seattle to DC was very uneventful, napped, read, watched some 30 Rock, and some other movie that was provided... DC was an easy airport to navigate, however it was a big airport too. The flight from DC from Vienna wasn't too bad either. It was a 9 hour flight that at times seemed to last forever. While crossing the Atlantic is was night time, but once we got over Spain it was possible to see glowing lights from below. Somewhere around France the sun began to rise, it was a really cool sight to see. As I meandered through the airport in Vienna I realized that the taste of Europe so far was that many people smelled of cigarettes or were highly perfumed. The flight from Vienna to Austria was delayed an hour because of snow.

The flight over the Balkans and into Macedonia was cloud covered until we began our descent to the airport. Probably only over the last 5 minutes was I able to see the green hillsides and winding river. There were many square small fragile looking farm houses scattered all along the countryside however. Som e of them had cars all parked out in front of them. from the looks of it they were either junk cars or a used sales lot. I pick the former of the two.

Arriving at the airport was a different thing. The building seems very rundown and not well maintained; just a concrete block that planes land next to, and people come and go. One of the school administrators Ivan and his friend (forgot her name!!!) were there to pick me up. We loaded up my bags in his sweet European Civic - they are not the same as in the US WAY cooler - and took off towards Skopje. As we came closer to my apartment Ivan decided to stop by NOVA - the school I will be interning at. It is very large, and like the airport mostly concrete, the playground behind the builiding looks promising. I love recess! : )

We then took off for my apartment. The landlords were ready and waiting. They took me up stairs to the third floor of their building to a SWEET 1 bedroom 50 square meter flat. I had seen pictures of the inside previously, but really this place is awesome. The landlords son lives below me with his wife and their 4 month old. Nice couple. Not only to I have a killer apartment I have sweet neighbors. Between Ivan and my neighbors I have been stocked with food in the fridge and the cupboards for the next couple of days.

Today is the Orthodox Christmas Eve, and tomorrow most of the city will be shut down to observe the Othodox Christmas day.

I'm all unpacked had a bit of cheese and salami with a small glass of wine. I might head downtown to the city center, but likely I will stay in, relax, rest and just be at home. : )

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Seattle Airport

I'm sitting at the Seattle Airport, waiting for my turn to board a flight. I will be flying to Washington D.C. and then from there to Vienna Austria, where I will hang out for 3 hours, just to fly one more hour to my final destination of Skopje Macedonia.
As many of you know I am completing my internship requirement for my degree in education. I will be student teaching 4th grade students at the NOVA International Education school. These schools are (as far as I know) private schooling institutions, where I will teach all content areas (reading, writing, math...) in English. I have a sweet, humble, 1 bedroom apartment that is a 10 minute walk from my school, and a 20 minute walk from the city center. NOVA has helped me so much getting things set up over there, I am very much looking forward to working with them! They have even already stocked my refrigerator, and cupboards with food so that I don't have to run to the grocery store on my first day to get food!
For those of you that didn't already know (I didn't) Macedonia is a small, but proud country, North of Greece. It is also known as the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.
I will try to keep up on this so that you can all read what is going on, and that way I can hopefully keep in touch with you all too! I am not always the best at responding right away, and plan to be BUSY not only with my classroom and teaching, but also with exploring the country of Macedonia, and Europe as well. I will miss you but will see you in June!

Evan